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Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

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Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby Wood Trekker on Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:42 pm

This is a post I did for my blog a while back, and I thought I would share it here, mostly as an attempt to figure out exactly how to post images.

Earlier I did a post looking at the clothing choices of some early 20th century cold weather explorers. You can see the post here. There has been a lot of speculation about the performance characteristics of different types of clothing, so I decided to do some research and see if I can find any actual scientific studies, which produced data on the subject rather than subjective evaluations. Interestingly, I found that such tests have actually been performed on both George Mallory’s clothing as well as that of Robert Falcon Scott and Roald Amundsen: Benchmarking Functionality of Historical Cold Weather Clothing: Robert F. Scott, Roald Amundsen, George Mallory, by George Havenith, Department of Ergonomics (Human Sciences) Loughborough University. The photographs used in this post are from the study.

The below picture shows a side by side of Scott’s, Amundsen’s and a modern cold weather suit, used in the test.

Image

Here the same clothing can be seen on the thermal manikins.

Image

Here you can see Mallory’s clothing as used in the test.

Image

The study was performed at Loughborough University and the clothing of Mallory, Scott and Amundsen was compared along several categories and factors to modern cold weather clothing, containing fleece and down insulation. Of the vintage clothing, the warmest possible combination of items was used for the test, with the Amundsen clothing being tested with both the reindeer and seal skin outer layer in the alternative.

Each clothing arrangement was placed on a thermal manikin is a controlled temperature environment. The insulation values were measured in units of clo (1clo=0.155 m2C/W).

The first test looked at insulation without the addition of any other factors such as wind. The graph below shows the results.

Image

The results clearly show that the insulation value of modern clothing is higher than any of the other options. The Amundsen clothing with reindeer shell has the next best insulation, followed by Amundsen’s clothing with the seal skin shell, followed by Scott’s clothing, and in last comes Mallory’s clothing. It has been mentioned by some people that Mallory’s clothing was lighter than modern clothing used on Everest trips. While objectively true, it also provides significantly less insulation.

The second test, or more accurately, calculation, shows the insulation value as compared to the weight of the clothing. In the chart below we can see the insulation value (clo) per kilogram.

Image

Here we can clearly see that for the weight, the modern clothing significantly outperforms the vintage options. The modern clothing provides more than twice the insulation per kg than Scott’s and Amundsen’s clothing, and 1.65 times better insulation per kg than Mallory’s.

The third test looked at how much insulation is retained when the clothing is exposed to wind. The chart below shows the insulation value as a percentage of the static insulation.

Image

The modern clothing again shows to be the best, closely followed by Amundsen’s clothing with the reindeer shell.

A fourth aspect of the clothing was tested in a study by Dorman LE. Havenith, The Effects of Protective Clothing on Energy Consumption During Different Activities, Eur J Appl Physiol. 2009 105(3):463-70.

The study showed that not only weight, but also the bulkiness and layering of clothing contributed to energy consumption. Simply stated, bulky clothing makes it harder for you to move, and makes you use up more energy for the same tasks. The table below shows the increase in metabolic consumption caused by each clothing option looked at above. There is no exact data for Mallory’s clothing, but the study concluded that the layers of silk between the wool would make movement easier, decreasing the metabolic expenditure when compared to that of Scott who used similar wool layering.

Clothing Combination ------% increase of metabolic rate when sledge pulling------% increase of metabolic rate when dog sledding
Scott---------------------------------------------------24%--------------------------------------------------------n/a
Amundsen---------------------------------------------18.5%-----------------------------------------------------10%
Modern------------------------------------------------12.5%-------------------------------------------------------7%

It is again clear that the modern clothing is a lot less cumbersome, and requires less energy expenditure to operate.

The conclusion reached by the above studies is that while Amundsen’s clothing provided better insulation than Scott’s, considering that Scott largely man hauled his sleds to the pole, unlike Amundsen who used dogs, the clothing would have provided adequate insulation. Both Amundsen and Scott would have found their clothing deficient during periods of inactivity, as was in fact noted by Amundsen in his journal. The big problem for Scott would have been the high energy expenditure required by the clothing. 24% increase in energy consumption is significant and would have greatly contributed to the expedition’s unfortunate end. With respect to Mallory, the studies concluded that his clothing would have been adequate down to -30 degrees Celsius. However, if any high wind speeds were encountered (above 40 km/h), or there was any inactivity, the clothing would have been deficient.
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Re: Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby Wood Trekker on Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:43 pm

Ha! It worked! Does anyone know how to make tables when posting?
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Re: Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby Algiz on Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:00 pm

Wood Trekker wrote:Ha! It worked! Does anyone know how to make tables when posting?

make tables? I can hardly make the beerbottle open while posting,not any woodwork.
"Hiljaa pitää miehen kairassa kulkea ja nostaa hattua kelopuulle."
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Re: Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby Algiz on Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:05 pm

Algiz wrote:
Wood Trekker wrote:Ha! It worked! Does anyone know how to make tables when posting?

make tables? I can hardly make the beerbottle open while posting,not any woodwork.

By the way whats your Own take on that clothing topic or is it equal to that scientific third party result:)? Iam always curious about member Own opinions,i dont mean to offend by this.
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Re: Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby Wood Trekker on Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:19 pm

Algiz wrote:
Algiz wrote:
Wood Trekker wrote:Ha! It worked! Does anyone know how to make tables when posting?

make tables? I can hardly make the beerbottle open while posting,not any woodwork.

By the way whats your Own take on that clothing topic or is it equal to that scientific third party result:)? Iam always curious about member Own opinions,i dont mean to offend by this.


Not offended at all. Here I've tried to just give an overview of the different studies and their conclusions. I think that for most conditions it does not matter much what you are wearing. When I'm out in the woods, I wear mostly wool just because I like it. I know it is heavier than modern materials for the amount of insulation, but it doesn't matter when I'm just out for the weekend. If I was going to cross Antarctica, on the other hand, I would have to think long and hard about what clothing I take. :)
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Re: Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby Finnman on Wed Feb 01, 2012 8:18 am

Good research! Interesting that modern materials are not that much better than those very traditional ones. Sure they are lighter, but how about the strength? I think traditional clothes are much more wear resistant than those ultramodern? That´s just a thought cause I have never had those ultra modern mountain climbing equipment.
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Re: Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby L.V.. on Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:50 am

Hey, welcome to the campfire at my part too. :)

It were common to say back then that old lumberjacks looked like a reindeers up north and that study clearly shows why they looked like they did.

Really interesting post you have made.
Did any of the studies mention anything about moisture and/or wet clothing. :?:
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Re: Comparison Between Modern and Early 20th Century Clothing

Postby Wood Trekker on Wed Feb 01, 2012 3:35 pm

L.V.. wrote:Hey, welcome to the campfire at my part too. :)

It were common to say back then that old lumberjacks looked like a reindeers up north and that study clearly shows why they looked like they did.

Really interesting post you have made.
Did any of the studies mention anything about moisture and/or wet clothing. :?:


One of the studies mentioned that modern clothing is much better when wet, but there was no specific data on it. I think it would depend on what type of clothing it was. Modern waterproof layers are certainly much better, but I don't know what the data would be if the insulation itself got wet.

From reading their books and journals, all of them, including Nansen, had problems with the Burberry/Gaberdine/Ventille outer layer. It did not appear to be waterproof. They also had problems with their shoes which were made of reindeer fur, which got wet and then froze.

I have not been able to find any good data on the insulation properties of different materials when wet.
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